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Welcome to the online home of Appfix. With many years of experience in the appliance industry, weve built an excellent reputation for providing outstanding and dependable service. Appfix is the regions top appliance repair specialist for all types of equipment.
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Monday: 7:30am  -  7:30am
Tuesday: 7:30am  -  7:30am
Wednesday: 7:30am  -  7:30am
Thursday: 7:30am  -  7:30am
Friday: 7:30am  -  7:30am
Saturday: 7:30am  -  2:30am
Sunday: 8:30am  -  1:00pm

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1. My DRYER just quit. Fuses and breaker are good, motor not running.

You most likely have a thermal cut-off that has opened. This part is usually located on the heater element case. Checking this part with a meter, you should get continuity. As the name says, this is a THERMAL cut-off, meaning it cuts off if the temperature of the element gets too high. While this part CAN open for no apparent reason, it is very rare. The usual causes for this part going out are: Improper air flow, usually caused by the vent hose behind the dryer being kinked or the vent system otherwise restricted, The cycling and hi-limit thermostats have both gone bad, causing the dryer to over heat. When you purchase the thermal cut-off, it sometimes comes with a hi-limit thermostat (depending on the brand), but the cycling thermostat must always be purchased separately.

2. My WASHER does not fill Water is coming in but it seems to be siphoning the water down the drain.

This should not be to tough too fix. There are 2 causes for this: The drain hose is too low. The drain hose must be looped higher than the water level in the washer. If it is too low, raise it up. If it is impossible to raise the drain hose, the cure for this is to install a siphon break in your drain hose. The part is cheap and easy to install. The drain hose must be able go get air in order to prevent setting up a siphon action. If your drain hose is taped to the plumbing pipe, or fits in too tight, it will siphon. The drain hose must just drop into the plumbing pipe. If it is impossible to give the drain hose air at the plumbing pipe, use a siphon break in your drain hose.

2. My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The glow bar (igniter) is glowing, but it will not light..

I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances. Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained properly.I think you either have a bad igniter (glow bar) or a bad safety valve. Yes, the glow bar can be bad and still glow. It must pull a predetermined amount of current in order for the safety valve to open. On a tag on the safety valve there should be an AMP or AMPERAGE or CURRENT rating, usually something like 3.2 amps. This is the amount of amperage that the glow bar must pull in order to be good. You will need a clamp-on amp meter to test the amperage draw of the glow bar. Clamp the meter around either of the 2 lead wires at the back of the glow bar and turn on the thermostat. Observe the amp draw. If it is within 2 percent of the listed rating on the safety valve, the glow bar is good and you should replace the safety valve. If the amp rating is not within 2 percent of the listed rating, replace the glow bar.

1. The clock on my STOVE started flashing F1

You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Here is the procedure for determining your problem. Disconnect power to stove Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC). Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire apx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on. Turn power back on to stove. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC. If after apx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.


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